Friday, July 13, 2018

Busy two weeks and boat ride

The last two weeks have been busy.

Two weeks ago I travelled around with Alex from Goroka who had come over to check on a number of pineapple plantings that had been established as source material, for farmers to take suckers from,  to plant production blocks.
There are two main varieties of pineapple in PNG. One has very spiky thorns along the leaves which means you have to be careful around the plant, particularly when harvesting, or weeding. The other variety is spineless and has a different, more upright leaf shape.


This is the spiny variety. Area of about 2ha of pineapples. Typical growing area in ENB; three layers of foliage. High trees are coconuts. Next level are bananas, or coco, or possibly young timber trees, last level is the crop itself. The multi layers provide shade and protection for the crop. In this case the farmer is intending to cut down some of the second tier trees for more light now that the crop is established.


Pineapples developing; about 3-4 months from harvest at this stage. Approx 6months for the crop to develop.

Alex, looking every inch the scientist, inspecting the crop and the weeding that needs attending to. Alex is from Goroka (average temp about 21-25 degrees) and found the heat in Kokopo "difficult".
You wouldn't get me into the patch do do anything. There was one guy doing some weeding when we were there; dressed up with protective gear and long socks on his arms to protect himself from the spines- in 32 degrees! 


This what happens when you don't keep up with the weeding and try drastic measures. We had a discussion about the yellowing in the leaves and after some questioning, discovered that the farmers had used Roundup to try and clean up the block, with over-spray damaging the pineapples. Most looked as if they would survive and were growing out of it.

Right at the we end of the week (Friday night, 6:30pm confirmation), I was informed I was going to Lae for 4 days for a workshop, the following week, leaving early Sunday morning. This is how things are done over here! No pre- planning!
The next day; Saturday we had planned to join a "banana" boat trip to some islands about 30 minutes away, with Spence and Susanne who had friends over from NZ for a week.


Unlikely looking crew who wanted to get in the photo while we were waiting for the banana boat to be organized.  Shot taken on the banana boat beach.

The characters going on the trip -waiting while the boatman filled some jerrycans with petrol.
"Sean"(007 fame) is taking the picture, on the left is Spence (aka "Buff"), next is Susanne (aka Goldie), (there is a story about this, I wont detail on-line) Spoiler; Spence likes movies, those with Goldie Hawn, especially. In the back is Debbie and Gary from Tauranga, Mollie in black, on the side of the boat and you-know-who wearing the life jacket. Volcanos at Rabaul, in the background.

The islands are idyllic, although no running water, or electricity. There is a large school on this island which caters for primary school.


Kids jumping off the tree. Gary also tried but from lower branches.

Early sunday morning I'm off to Lae with Neli, for a Fresh Produce Development Agency workshop.
We had to fly Rabaul to Moresby, then Moresby to to Lae. Flight was diverted half way through to Lae. We found out later that some debris on the runway at Moresby had caused the airport to be closed down.
With a bit of effort we managed to get our bags off the plane and we went on our way; into Lae a bit earlier than we should have been. Grant and Debbie on the same flight, supposed to connect to a flight to Brisbane and then to NZ, ended up staying the night in Lae. The catch phrase over here is "expect the unexpected".

Fresh Produce are introducing an on-line reporting system for projects and work is recorded and captured soon after it is done. They've had problems with staff laptops getting stolen, "lost" or "dying" with out the information on them being transferred elsewhere, (Ive been helping Neli with her laptop, as its in its death throes and only 6 years old, dust takes a toll here), all the work recorded on them is thus lost.
FPDA also have a cell phone system, which is being updated, with a menu that has access to their data base, weather forecasts, pest control market information, seed inventory data, etc, etc. Its designed so that simple "old" Nokia type cell phone can use them. Its the only communication system in remote areas. There are no land lines!

I was quite impressed with the system, and it seems to work very well in a country that has difficult communications and where somebody might travel 6 hours to the nearest agricultural "shop" only to discover what they want is out of stock. Vege growers in PNG have been having trouble with seed supply, as the three main stockists don't keep their stocks up to date. The local Fresh Produce Market Authority has bypassed the retailers and become the seed re- seller of choice for many local growers in Kokopo area.

The workshop was one of three FPDA are conducting to inform staff and get feedback on the system. For me it was an opportunity to "network" and meet people from Lae, Goroka and Moresby. Visits to the local market and driving around Lae enabled me to understand the dynamics in a town that has a "cowboy" reputation among locals.
While roads around Lae were very good mostly. The trip to the airport takes nearly an hour because a good portion of it is basically not sealed, and is rutted and full of holes. Trucks or buses travelling the road, have to slowly maneuver the holes and ruts so they hold up the following traffic. So often there is a stream of 4 wheel drives and utes overtaking them on the inside, as well as the outside; it becomes a bit of race track. This road is not only the main route to the airport but also to the highlands. The road has gradually deteriorated over the last 15 years; it used to take about 2-2.5 hours to get to Goroka now it takes about 5-6 hours.
Driving along the road to the airport and seeing the villages and conditions some people live in, causes my heart to go out the locals and the difficult conditions they face in their everyday lives. Most in NZ don't really understand what hardship is.








The photos don't really do justice to the state of the road. I'll never complain about the roads around Kokopo again! 
Finally the view from my hotel room in Lae. About 10 minutes out of the city. Road from here into Lae is a good  4 lane highway. The bit of road on the other side of the silver fence is part of a section of road about a kilometer long with huge ruts and holes, at night you could hear the trucks and buses clattering along the road.                                                                                                                        



I (Christine) enjoyed most of the boat trip and the bruises have almost all gone today (6 days later). The first part of the trip was pretty rough and strong bracing was needed to prevent sliding around the banana boat. Scenery was amazing and it was so good being out on the water. While waiting to set out there were lots of happy families around us spending time at the beach. When we got back about 5 hours later there were a different group of people and a very different atmosphere. I felt uncomfortable for the first time since arriving in Kokopo.
Anton's trip to Lae was so last minute. We didn't have copies of flight times which led to confusion over departure times. Last minute changes were made to Anton's accommodation due to security issues. At least I knew what hotel he was at (posh!) and I insisted he ring me every night. 

Lae has a high population of rascals and a recent outbreak of Polio. Lae to Port Moresby portion of the return home was cancelled on Thursday morning which meant a 5 hour wait at Lae airport and a later flight back to Kokopo. Still, Anton arrived back safely with lots to tell.

I am getting better after a touch of flu? or sinus issues from all that dust! I am skilled at getting rid of ants, mozzies, crabs, worms (long, skinny, black/brown ones that move like greased lightening) and better at thinking of the geckos as little friends. 
I am making so many friends among the locals and the PNV drivers all know where to drop me off. I must stand out like a sore thumb. My frumpy sandals and white legs still raise a laugh among the local children and a smile among their elders. I laugh with them. It is good to see them laugh, they have a very difficult life.
I spent a day out at the Mask festival Wednesday - very colourful with lots of dancing. I took the PNV into the market then walked 15 minutes to the festival. Johannes spotted me walking out on the way back home and gave me a lift - very greatful. 
Three new volunteers arrived this week so it's everyone out to dinner tonight. Always a special time.  



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